Sunday, October 19, 2008

Something a bit lighter - surfing

Seeing God's goodness in today. One of my closest friends here in Hawaii asked me to go surfing this morning at Keei (kay-aye). We got there and well, the surf rolling is was double over head high. Her sized waves, but not my sized waves - I'm more of a petite size girl right now - but hey I'm there to be in the water. I'm not dumb, just eager to get some exercise. Instead of surfing, we'll call me a close range surf spectator, or maybe shark bait. I paddled out and stayed to the far right away from the breaking waves and watched the other more experienced surfers ride. It was so refreshing just be out in the water - time to reflect and pray as I watch huge waves crash on the reef. I do miss long walks in the Colorado wilderness, but the Hawaii wilderness is out in the water. Between waves and trying to stay out of them I enjoyed watching the black trigger fishes splash the surface and the Hawaiian Sergents and yellow tangs cruise around the reef. And then right before I was going to head in - a whole pod of dolphins scooted along the reefs edge, baby's jumping, mama's spinning.

More surfing - it has been weeks since we've had good surf - so this afternoon Aaron and I headed down to our preferred beginner surf spot, Kahaluu. Preferred because the reef is at least a couple feet deeper and for beginners because there is a nice smaller inside wave. Paddling out a turtle came up 4 feet from my board - I think he winked at me. I think I can actually call what I did this time surfing. I've discovered that I have a lot more fun just catching the bigger whitewash from the outside break - no hassle in having to be in just the right place. Makes for a nice little ride. How sweet it was - Aaron and I got up on same whitewash together - somehow facing each other and rode together for a while throwing each other shakas. Aaron went down and I think I rode it for like 8 more seconds because it broke again(this is a long ride for me!) So refreshing - we finally feel like we are getting somewhere with this surfing thing - we actually stand up most of the time, we are more confident in the water, and get in the wrong place less often.

Lord, thank you for your goodness - this beautiful earth and getting to enjoy it.


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